This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03. *Watch the uncut video interview here! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Emil’s Original Episode: EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends. Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp! betterhelp.com/NUGGET Use this link for 10% off your first month! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach Emery Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-stroh Nuggets: 0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals 0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve 0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover 0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics 0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks 0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned 0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports 0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing 0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships 0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories 0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon 0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe 0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock 1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering 1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience 1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly 1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style 1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap 1:37:34 – The Freerider story 1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks 1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury 1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France 1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder 1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing 2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms 2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out LMNT! DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGET Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5 Nuggets: 0:03:26 – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals! 0:04:12 – Why picking the right project matters 0:05:41 – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA 0:07:05 – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO 0:09:39 – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR 0:11:34 – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR 0:15:58 – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR 0:17:04 – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy 0:18:09 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging? 0:21:03 – Bonus Tip: Know thyself 0:22:08 – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute 0:24:01 – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation 0:27:16 – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing 0:27:56 – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can) 0:29:55 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty 0:33:55 – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you 0:37:27 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list, and not leaving room for serendipity 0:40:40 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways 0:42:13 – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA 0:43:00 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!) 0:45:35 – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt 0:48:00 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move 0:50:45 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!) 0:53:02 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge 0:54:20 – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there 0:54:50 – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects 0:56:37 – Summaries are in the show notes! 0:57:17 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring 0:58:04 – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Tom’s Other Episodes: EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021) Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022) Sam’s Other Episodes: EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-sam Nuggets: 0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom’s advice for vanlife peeing activities 0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema 0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links) 0:13:59 – Tom’s busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do 0:15:58 – Tom’s quest to find the ultimate climbing experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 0:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube? 0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he’s so interested in where things are going 0:26:10 – It’s still early on YouTube 0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years? 0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts 0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media? 0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs 0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!) 0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content 0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel 0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra’s channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel 1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators 1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from? 1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube 1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode) 1:14:09 – Sam’s 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail 1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems 1:19:12 – Sam’s recommendations for The Nugget’s channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel 1:23:58 – Tom’s advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on 1:32:49 – Why aren’t brands doing more on YouTube? 1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned? 1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships 1:43:55 – Tom’s advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful 1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube 1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube 1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube 1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom’s upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam’s upcoming trips in the States 1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing! Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out LMNT! DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGET Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4 Nuggets: 0:04:23 – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller 0:06:23 – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing 0:07:47 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice 0:10:38 – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement 0:12:25 – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s 0:14:23 – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber 0:15:35 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity 0:16:53 – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster 0:19:30 – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos 0:22:21 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessantly 0:26:27 – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats 0:29:33 – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries 0:30:59 – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well 0:33:48 – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.” 0:36:26 – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language 0:38:31 – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag 0:40:33 – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement 0:42:12 – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall 0:42:12 – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully 0:43:34 – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.” 0:43:56 – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall 0:48:38 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn 0:51:33 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique 0:55:08 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions 0:56:38 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice 0:58:36 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing 1:02:25 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas 1:03:51 – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style 1:06:14 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall 1:06:31 – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more! Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era Vella Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:24:37. *Watch the uncut video interview here! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Tim’s Original Episode: EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022)

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wall Nuggets: 0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children 0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer 0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience 0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing 0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s 0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip 0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing 0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing 0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.” 0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something 0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy 0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience 1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?” 1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone 1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are 1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion 1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta 1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things 1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful 1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article 1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta 1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta 1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out LMNT! DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGET Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3 Nuggets: 0:03:29 – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations 0:09:16 – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock 0:10:29 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew 0:11:38 – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip 0:13:12 – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful 0:14:30 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip 0:15:30 – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy 0:16:14 – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall 0:18:38 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag 0:19:48 – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have 0:22:27 – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try 0:23:21 – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose 0:23:57 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal 0:25:40 – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try 0:27:29 – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game 0:29:02 – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both 0:31:59 – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time 0:38:35 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers 0:40:47 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip 0:43:19 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders 0:45:45 – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip 0:48:11 – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting 0:50:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone 0:51:31 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip 0:52:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations 0:53:55 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills 0:54:25 – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count

Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caleb-robinson Nuggets: 0:07:20 – A Thursday in the life of Caleb Robinson 0:08:55 – New Year’s Resolutions, and building habits over time 0:11:24 – Climbing V13 in the first few years of climbing, and how competitive soccer informed his climbing and training approach 0:16:05 – How deadlifting fixed Caleb’s back 0:21:08 – Being enamored with soccer, and why he quit soccer and started climbing 0:24:07 – There’s no middle ground in conventional team sports, and why climbing is so special 0:29:16 – Uncle —> karate gym —> climbing 0:34:00 – “The hard work that you don’t want to do pays off.” 0:36:04 – “Intelligence is just as important as physical prowess.” 0:36:45 – Quadzilla, and connecting between the upper body and lower body 0:40:42 – How “hard work pays off” applies to Caleb’s climbing 0:42:41 – Being a self-learner, and having intention 0:49:12 – Training resources and athletes that have guided Caleb’s approach 0:52:26 – Experimenting with training, focusing on being good at climbing, and avoiding common mistakes and pitfalls 0:59:24 – How Caleb developed his technique, and the importance of climbing with people who are better than you 1:02:57 – Having a mobility routine, dedicating time to recovery, and missing snowboarding 1:08:40 – Caleb’s finger-training journey 1:19:50 – The value of consistency + simplicity, and sticking with it when progress slows (and Caleb’s love affair with Dave MacLeod) 1:27:17 – What Caleb’s finger training progress looked like over the two years that he did max hangs 1:31:41 – Caleb’s grip positions for hangboarding 1:33:52 – How his finger training has changed in the past year, and learning to apply his finger strength to climbing 1:38:13 – What a typical training week looks like for Caleb 1:45:16 – Why Caleb started route setting 1:47:21 – A typical training week now as a route setter 1:49:31 – Caleb’s philosophy about skills, finger strength, and core strength, and his stable workouts right now (board climbing, campusing on the spray wall, etc) 1:52:32 – Caleb’s core training routine 1:58:01 – Why Caleb focuses on maximal effort training 1:59:12 – The importance of quality practice 2:00:32 – “Success comes with consistency over a long period of time”, and Caleb’s photography career 2:03:07 – Moody Russian painters 2:04:31 – Finding his own artistic expression in photography, and the collaborative side of taking portraits 2:10:42 – Taking the long view as an athlete and artist 2:13:32 – The one thing Caleb wishes people spent more time thinking about 2:19:24 – Wrap up and what’s next

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31. *Watch the uncut video interview here! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Aidan’s Original Episode: EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)

The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing

Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2 Nuggets: 0:04:22 – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017 0:11:12 – Top out views 0:12:06 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads 0:16:55 – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible 0:20:21 – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training 0:22:51 – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day) 0:24:56 – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”) 0:25:35 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!) 0:30:01 – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders 0:32:41 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders) 0:35:01 – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff 0:36:28 – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try 0:36:49 – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!) 0:39:06 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1 0:40:22 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have) 0:41:46 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing 0:42:59 – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day) 0:44:35 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have 0:46:45 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect 0:48:02 – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade 0:48:26 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety 0:52:40 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics 0:53:23 – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef! greenchef.com/nugget60 Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr Nuggets: 0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery 0:09:55 – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery 0:14:25 – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury 0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta 0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression 0:26:06 – “What got me here won’t get me there.” 0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A! 0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients 0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients 0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers 0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action 0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training 1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts 1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower 1:21:00 – Limbic friction 1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam” 1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing 1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers 1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home 1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds? 1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do 1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day 1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement 2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery 2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body 2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low 2:08:23 – Staying on the bus 2:11:39 – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period 2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar 2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength 2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is…. 2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing 2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer 2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter 2:43:12 – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life 2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie 2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance 2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.” 3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering 3:09:41 – “Progression isn’t always the answer.” 3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c) 3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP 3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing 3:31:53 – Take action on something 3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team 3:36:42 – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36. *Watch the uncut video interview here! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Jordan’s Original Episode: EP 115: Jordan Cannon (April 18, 2022)

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1 Nuggets: 0:02:53 – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA 0:06:28 – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips 0:09:11 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early 0:12:11 – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day 0:13:58 – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips 0:17:55 – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open 0:21:48 – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things 0:23:47 – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are 0:24:10 – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff 0:25:51 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing 0:27:24 – Try to avoid survival mode 0:29:09 – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends 0:31:28 – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list) 0:34:12 – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip 0:37:34 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good 0:39:11 – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area 0:41:55 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested) 0:45:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb 0:46:07 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much 0:47:21 – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing 0:49:01 – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward 0:52:39 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin 0:54:47 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right 0:57:52 – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip 0:58:57 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip 0:59:37 – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open 1:00:31 – Wrap up

Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon! Listen to Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse's Original Episode: EP 127: Jesse Firestone

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more! Check out Chalk Cartel! chalkcartel.com Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! athleticgreens.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Petzl! petzl.com Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnutt Nuggets: 0:08:20 – Anna’s childhood room 0:10:00 – Plans for Austria 0:11:21 – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast 0:12:50 – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus 0:14:35 – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?) 0:17:39 – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget 0:19:41 – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche 0:24:40 – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side 0:28:57 – Balancing intensity and comedy 0:30:10 – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still 0:33:30 – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK 0:35:53 – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall 0:39:29 – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9 0:41:33 – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab 0:45:38 – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters 0:50:14 – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9 0:55:32 – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests 1:01:01 – Some context about the 9c test 1:02:53 – Toe training! 1:07:11 – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility 1:09:15 – Leaning into our superpowers 1:14:53 – Anna’s dream board, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style 1:19:30 – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house 1:24:09 – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them 1:28:45 – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits 1:31:23 – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged 1:38:04 – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more) 1:41:20 – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on 1:43:19 – Shoulder exercises for slab 1:44:12 – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs? 1:46:59 – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d) 1:52:54 – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like? 1:58:52 – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from? 2:02:55 – Anna’s sensitivity 2:04:14 – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet 2:09:31 – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page 2:16:14 – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym 2:21:18 – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym? 2:23:31 – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion 2:28:27 – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting 2:31:32 – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted, and don’t assume 2:35:45 – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience 2:39:17 – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes 2:41:34 – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English 2:42:32 – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos 2:47:07 – Giving others permission 2:49:28 – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing 2:51:01 – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel 2:52:59 – Anna’s sources of income 2:54:54 – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video 2:56:41 – The difference between YouTube and podcasts 3:00:35 – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals? 3:06:43 – Empathy 3:09:20 – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Tyler’s Other Episodes: EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021) Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)

Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way. Check out The Climbing Zine! climbingzine.com Check out Grasshopper Climbing! grasshopperclimbing.com instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! rhinoskinsolutions.com Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehall Nuggets: 0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business 0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine 0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine? 0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine 0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics 0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression 0:26:37 – Why you can’t rely just on climbing for your happiness 0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to 0:29:26 – Luke’s vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film 0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job 0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man 0:42:13 – Steven’s origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people’s stories 0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life 0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business 1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons 1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments 1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke

New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more. *This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee! kegelsandcoffee.com We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee