EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.
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thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3
Nuggets:
0:03:29 – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations
0:09:16 – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock
0:10:29 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew
0:11:38 – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip
0:13:12 – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful
0:14:30 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip
0:15:30 – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy
0:16:14 – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall
0:18:38 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag
0:19:48 – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have
0:22:27 – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try
0:23:21 – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose
0:23:57 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal
0:25:40 – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try
0:27:29 – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game
0:29:02 – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both
0:31:59 – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time
0:38:35 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers
0:40:47 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip
0:43:19 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders
0:45:45 – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip
0:48:11 – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting
0:50:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone
0:51:31 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip
0:52:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations
0:53:55 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills
0:54:25 – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count
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