On Episode 283 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Munising, Michigan at the Michigan Icefest with Alaska-based alpinist, Clint Helander. What with the Chris Kalous Dance Party and the last call nightcap(s) at a bar literally called Whisky Dick’s, it had been a long night and an early morning for both … Continue reading "Enormocast 283: Clint Helander – To Live in Hearts We Leave Behind"

On Episode 282 of the Enormocast, I sit down with US Olympic qualifier, Natalia Grossman. That’s right, Natalia is headed to Paris to represent the US in Lead and Boulder combined (speed is separate this time around). But this moment was caught during a bit of down time for Natalia as she ramps up for … Continue reading "Enormocast 282: Natalia Grossman – The Tyranny of Expectations"

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, Harvey Wright from Episode 222 returns to discuss his ongoing treatment and recovery for addiction. But more importantly, Harvey is here to talk about his new album, Patio Pacifica, written almost entirely while in a Vancouver treatment facility. Also, we talk about the rough and dirty years since … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Harvey Wright Returns with Patio Pacifica"

On Episode 281 of the Enormocast, Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins from Memphis Rox join to discuss the mission of the famous pay-what-you-can gym, Memphis Rox, in the inner-city of Memphis, TN. Jon is director of operations, and Tye went from walk-in to head coach and course-setter. Memphis Rox, founded by Tom Shadyac in 2018, … Continue reading "Enormocast 281: Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins of Memphis Rox – Peace Above All"

On Episode 280 of the Enormocast we present the 2024 Taps edition of the Enormocast. This is the annual episode where we lay to rest traditions, foibles, and notions in climbing that are either sadly going to sleep never to reawaken, or should be put to bed for good. The Enormocast is joined by our … Continue reading "Enormocast 280: Taps 2024 – The Really Bollocks Edition"

On episode 279 of the Enormocast, we have an allt-ime double-header. First, David Smart joins from Toronto to talk about his life as a climber and his new book from The Mountaineers, Royal Robbins: The American Climber. Royal Robbins was one of the most influential climbers of all time, and David’s book is the most … Continue reading "Enormocast 279: David Smart and Royal Robbins – Some Work of Noble Note"

On Episode 278 of the Enormocast, I connect with Thomas Bukowski from my home to his van sitting in Yosemite. Thomas had just completed three El Cap routes in three days, and was recovering. His next adventures in Patagonia were just on the horizon. Thomas is an American citizen, but is also half Chinese and … Continue reading "Enormocast 278: Thomas Bukowski – A Funny Little Life"

As we stare down into the howling void of Government regulation of our dear sport, let us give thanks and a listen to Armando Menocal from 2015. Armando has made it his life’s work to keep the simpering bureaucrats in Washington and elsewhere at bay. But lately, they have reared their heads in an attempt … Continue reading "Enormocast Rebroadcast: Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior"

On Episode 277 of the Enormocast, we connect with the inimitable Kurt Smith. Kurt grew up in the 70s in Tahoe and through friendships with local climbers like Rick Lovelace and encounters with Yosemite Climber, Kurt found himself in Joshua Tree amongst the Stonemasters in the early 80s. Soon, Kurt and his crew were making … Continue reading "Enormocast 277: Kurt Smith – The Iconoclast"

When we left the boys in the last Episode, they had just summited the Trango Tower via the 2nd ascent of Cowboy Direct. In this installment, the summit emotions and revelations come fast and furious as well as the realization that hits every alpinist on the summit: “Oh, shit, we still gotta get off this … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 2]"

On Episode 276 of the Enormocast, three guys dreamed big and got it done. Climbers Jordan Cannon and Jesse Huey hitched their wagons to Matt Segal‘s long standing dream of free climbing the second ascent of Todd Skinner et al’s master piece, Cowboy Direct, on Trango Tower in Pakistan (AKA Nameless Tower). What ensued was … Continue reading "Enormocast 276: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 1]"

On Episode 275 of the Enormocast, I sit down face to face with Finnish climber Anna Laitenin. After a youth in gymnastics, Anna found climbing and then almost accidentally found herself one of the best climbers in Finland. A life of competitions and pursuing hard climbs at home and beyond followed, as did becoming a … Continue reading "Enormocast 275: Anna Liina Laitinen – Born to Kiivetä"

On Episode 274 of the Enormocast, I connect over the Atlantic with Swiss alpinist, guide, and Eiger North Face aficionado, Roger Schaeli. Roger was born directly in the Swiss alps and learned to climb at an early age with his father. Surrounded by deep Swiss climbing culture, an early accident did not deter Roger, rather … Continue reading "Enormocast 274: Roger Schaeli – In The Shadow of the Eiger"

On Episode 273 of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Brette Harrington who appeared on the Enormocast in 2016. Just after that first appearance, Brette and Mayan Smith-Gobat left for an audacious attempt on free climbing Riders on the Storm on Torre Central on the Torres de Paine massif. Even though they failed in their ultimate … Continue reading "Enormocast 273: Brette Harrington – Keeper of the Flame"

On Episode 272 of the Enormocast, I connect with young trad-phenom, Connor Herson. Connor first burst into climbing’s collective consciousness with the 6th free ascent of the Nose at the tender age of 15. Connor had already climbed 14 5.14s by the age of 14 (say that ten times fast), and he went on to … Continue reading "Enormocast 272: Connor Herson – Deeds of Youth"

On Episode 271, I am joined by climbing coach and former (maybe) competitor, Charlie Schreiber. Charlie coaches climbers of all ages, but the meat of this conversation is about youth climbing teams. Charlie has been a youth climbing coach since he was a youth himself. We discuss my own skepticism about the promise of youth … Continue reading "Enormocast 271: Charlie Schreiber – The Kids are Alright"

On Episode 270 of the Enormocast, we are joined by Indigenous activist and climber, Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard. Though her path to accepting her heritage as a member of the CHamoru/Tugong Clan with origins in Guam was not without struggles, Briana has spent the last 6 years advocating for Indigenous peoples in Ohio and Eastern Kentucky. As … Continue reading "Enormocast 270: Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard – Doing What Needs to Be Done"

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, you get the outtakes from Episode 269 with climber, Tyler Karow. After the official interview ended, we kept talking about climbing in Jordan, the social cost of the itinerant climbing lifestyle, and a few more tidbits for your pleasure. And the cops showed up. Enjoy this free “bonus” … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Tyler Karow Saves a Goat (Maybe a Sheep?)"

On Episode 269 of the Enormocast, I catch up with the elusive and prolific climber, Tyler Karow. Though Tyler has a popular presence on Youtube and Instagram, he still remained, for me, an enigma of sorts. Tyler burst on the national scene with a ground up free ascent of Golden Gate on El Cap (5.13) … Continue reading "Enormocast 269: Tyler Karow – Engineering the Stoke"

On Episode 268, I connect across the northern border with former climber and current therapist, Lincoln Stoller. Lincoln came up climbing in the 70s, and his wide ranging career in climbing found him partnered with the likes of Fred Beckey, Dougal Haston, George Lowe, and John Stannard. When his interest in climbing waned, he found … Continue reading "Enormocast 268: Lincoln Stoller – The Physics of the Unknown"